In tasting, the 2017s are mid-weight Barolos with the classic structure of Nebbiolo. They are often intensely aromatic. Acids and tannins are prominent in many wines. The fruit profiles are ripe, often distinctly red-toned, but not cooked or over-ripe. Perhaps most importantly, the 2017 Barolos are very true to site, which is always a concern with vintages marked by warm weather. The best 2017s are exceptionally polished, vivid and flat-out delicious. ANTONIO GALLONI

The Gianfranco Alessandria 2017 Barolo comes from a hot and dry vintage, but there are little evident signs of this. The wine reveals tart cherry and plum, with beautiful shadings of tar, licorice and smoke. You feel a hint of the 14.5% alcohol content although it is well integrated into the mid-weight texture displayed here. The wine opens readily (I came back to taste my open bottle about six hours later), but that touch of heat and those tight 2017 tannins merit a food pairing rich in cream or butter when your bottle has completed its evolution. Some 10,000 bottles were made.

Alessandria's 2017 Barolo is a gorgeous wine to drink now and over the next decade. Crushed flowers, spice and sweet red berry fruit grace a Barolo that impresses with its translucence and finesse. All the elements are so nicely balanced. Beams of tannin extend the mid-palate and finish nicely. The straight Barolo has been one of the under the radar gems of Piedmont for years, as it is again in 2017. This is very nicely done.